Description	Unit	Standard
Type	-	Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
Output (Capacity)	kW	1.4
No Load test@ (12) volts drive pinion Speed	A RPM	85 Max 2,550 Min
Brushes length	mm (in.)	7.3

Description	Unit	2.0 DOHC
Type	-	CS128D
Regulator Voltage	V	14.6
Brushes length	mm (in.)	25
Output (Capacity)	-	95 (A)

Description	Unit	2.0 DOHC
Capacity	AH	66
Cold Cranks Amps	CCA	610
Reserve Capacity Minimum	min	110
Load Test	amps	300
Minimum Voltage:	.	.
9.6 9.5 9.4 9.3 9.1 8.9 8.7 8.5	V V V V V V V V	70°F (21°C) and above 60°F (15.6°C) 50°F (10°C) 40°F (4.4°C) 30°F (-1.1°C) 20°F (-6.7°C) 10°F (-12.2°C) 0°F (-17.8°C)

Application	N•m	Lb-Ft	Lb-In
Battery Cable Nuts	15	11	-
Battery Carrier Tray Lower Bolts	10	-	89
Battery Carrier Tray Upper Bolts	20	15	-
Battery Retainer Clamp-to-Battery Rod Nuts	4	-	35
Battery Terminal Bolts	20	15	-
Battery-to-Generator Lead Nut	15	11	-
Generator Driveshaft Nut	100	74	-
Generator Lower Bracket-to-Engine Block Bolts	45	33	-
Generator Lower Bracket-to-Generator Nut	35	26	-
Generator Through-Bolts	25	18	-
Generator-to-Cylinder Head Support Bracket Bolt	20	15	-
Generator-to-Intake Manifold and Cylinder Head Support Bracket Bolts	35	26	-
Generator-to-Intake Manifold Strap Bracket Bolt	20	15	-
Intake Manifold-to-Engine Block Bracket Bolts (Over Starter)	20	15	-
Starter Field Connector Nut	8	-	71
Starter Solenoid Assembly Screws	8	-	71
Starter Solenoid Terminal-to-Battery Cable Terminal Nut	15	11	-
Starter Solenoid Terminal-to-Ignition Solenoid Terminal Nut	6	-	53
Starter Through-Bolts	6	-	53
Starter-to-Engine Block Mounting Bolt	45	33	-
Starter-to-Transmission Mounting Bolt	50	37	-

Step	Action	Value(s)	Yes	No
1	Turn the headlamps ON. Turn the dome lamps ON. Turn the ignition to START. Did the lights dim or go out?	-	Go to Step 2	Go to Step 8
2	Check the battery state of charge. Is the green eye showing from the built-in hydrometer?	-	Go to Step 3	Go to "Charging Procedure"
3	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	< 9.6 v	Go to "Charging Procedure"	Go to Step 4
4	Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the engine block. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	> 0.5 v	Go to Step 5	Go to Step 6
5	Clean, tighten, or replace the negative battery cable. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
6	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter "B" terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Is the voltage equal to the specified value?	< 9 v	Go to Step 7	Go to Step 13
7	Clean, tighten, or replace the positive battery cable. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
8	Inspect the engine fuse block fuse EF2. Is the fuse OK?	-	Go to Step 10	Go to Step 9
9	Replace the fuse EF1. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
10	Check the connection at the starter "ST" terminal. Is the connection OK?	-	Go to Step 12	Go to Step 11
11	Clean or tighten the connection as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
12	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter "ST" terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition to START. Is the voltage equal to the specified value?	> 7 v	Go to Step 13	Go to Step 14
13	Repair or replace the starter as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
14	Determine the type of transaxle on the vehicle. Is the vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission?	-	Go to Step 15	Go to Step 32
15	Disconnect the Park Neutral (P/N) position switch relay. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the P/N relay connector terminal 86. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 20	Go to Step 16
16	Disconnect the P/N position switch. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the P/N position switch connector terminal 10. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 17	Go to Step 25
17	Jumper the P/N position switch connector terminals 9 and 10. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the P/N relay connector terminal 86. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 18	Go to Step 19
18	Replace the neutral safety backup switch. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
19	Repair the open wire between the P/N position switch connector terminal 9 and the P/N back-up relay connector terminal 85. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
20	Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the P/N back-up relay connector terminal 30. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 21	Go to Step 27
21	Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the NSBU relay connector terminal 86. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 22	Go to Step 26
22	Jumper connector terminals 30 and 87 of the P/N relay. Turn the ignition to START. Does the starter crank?	-	Go to Step 31	Go to Step 23
23	Check for an open in the wire between the P/N relay connector terminal 87 and the starter "ST" terminal. Is the problem found?	-	Go to Step 24	Go to Step 13
24	Repair the wire, as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
25	Repair the open wire between the P/N position switch connector terminal 4 and ground. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
26	Repair the open wire between the P/N relay connector terminal 86 and the ignition switch connector terminal 9. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
27	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 5 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 29	Go to Step 28
28	Repair the open in the wiring between the engine block fuse EF5 and the ignition switch connector terminal 5. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
29	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 30	Go to Step 36
30	Repair the open in the wiring between the ignition switch connector terminal 3 and the P/N relay connector terminal 30. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
31	Replace the P/N relay. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
32	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 5 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 34	Go to Step 33
33	Repair the open in the wiring between the engine block fuse EF2 and the ignition switch connector terminal 5. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
34	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified??	11-14 v	Go to Step 35	Go to Step 36
35	Repair the open in the wiring between the ignition switch connector terminal 3 and the starter "ST" terminal. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
36	Replace the ignition switch. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-

Checks	Action
Check for a high-pitched whine during cranking before the engine fires. The engine cranks and fires properly.	The distance is too great between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Shimming the starter toward the flywheel is required.
Check for a high-pitched whine after the engine fires, as the key is being released. The engine cranks and fires properly. This intermittent complaint is often diagnosed as "starter hang-in" or "solenoid weak."	The distance is too small between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Shimming the starter away from the flywheel is required.
Check for a loud "whoop" after the engine fires but while the starter is still held engaged. The sound is like a siren if the engine is revved while the starter is engaged.	The most probable cause is a defective clutch. A new clutch will often correct this problem.
Check for a "rumble," a "growl," or, in severe cases, a "knock" as the starter is coasting down to a stop after starting the engine.	The most probable cause is a bent or an unbalanced starter armature. A new armature will often correct this problem.

1. Check for a bent or a worn flywheel.
2. Start the engine and carefully touch the outside diameter of the rotating flywheel ring gear with chalk or a crayon to show the high point of the tooth runout. Turn the engine OFF and rotate the flywheel so that the marked teeth are in the area of the starter pinion gear.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent the cranking of the engine.
4. Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a wire gauge of 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) minimum thickness or diameter. Center a pinion tooth between two flywheel teeth and the gauge. Do not gauge in the corners where a misleading larger dimension may be observed. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel.
5. If the clearance approaches 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) or more, shim the starter toward the flywheel. This condition is generally the cause of broken flywheel teeth or the starter housing. Shim the starter toward the flywheel by shimming only the outboard starter mounting pad. A shim of 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) thickness at this location will decrease the clearance by approximately 0.30 mm (0.012 inch). If normal starter shims are not available, plain washers or other suitable material may be used as shims.

1. Check the battery for obvious damage, such as a cracked or broken case or cover, which could permit the loss of electrolyte. If damage is obvious, replace the battery.

2. Check the hydrometer. If the green dot is visible, go to the load test procedure. If the indicator is dark but green is not visible, charge the battery. For charging a battery removed from the vehicle, refer to "Charging a Completely Discharged Battery" in this section.
3. Check the hydrometer. If the green dot is visible, go to the load test procedure. If the indicator is dark but green is not visible, charge the battery. For charging a battery removed from the vehicle, refer to "Charging a Completely Discharged Battery" in this section.
3. Connect a voltmeter and a battery load tester across the battery terminals.
4. Connect a voltmeter and a battery load tester across the battery terminals.
4. Apply a 300-ampere load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge from the battery.
5. Apply a 300-ampere load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge from the battery.
5. Remove the load.
6. Remove the load.
6. Wait 15 seconds to let the battery recover.
7. Wait 15 seconds to let the battery recover.
7. Apply a 270-ampere load.
8. Apply a 270-ampere load.
8. If the voltage does not drop below the minimum listed, the battery is good and should be reinstalled. If the voltage is less than the minimum listed, replace the battery. Refer to "Battery Specifications" in this section.
9. If the voltage does not drop below the minimum listed, the battery is good and should be reinstalled. If the voltage is less than the minimum listed, replace the battery. Refer to "Battery Specifications" in this section.

1. Perform the generator system test. Refer to "Generator System Check" in this section.
2. Replace the generator if it fails that test. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
3. If the generator passes the test, perform the on-vehicle output test which follows.

4. Attach a digital multimeter, an ammeter, and a carbon pile load to the vehicle.
5. Attach a digital multimeter, an ammeter, and a carbon pile load to the vehicle.

5. With the ignition switch in the off position, check and record the battery voltage.
6. With the ignition switch in the off position, check and record the battery voltage.
7. Remove the harness connector from the generator.
8. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position with the engine not running.
9. Use a digital multimeter to check for voltage in the harness connector "L" terminal. The reading should be near the specified battery voltage of 12 volts.
10. If the voltage is too low, check the indicator "L" terminal circuits for open and grounded circuits causing voltage loss. Correct any open wires, terminal connections, etc., as necessary. Refer to "Charging System" in this section.
11. Attach the generator harness connector.
12. Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The reading should be above that recorded in step 4 but less than 16 volts. If the reading is over 16 volts or below the previous reading, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
13. Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the generator amperage output.
14. Turn on the carbon pile, and adjust it to obtain the maximum amps while maintaining the battery voltage above 13 volts. If the reading is within 15 amps of the generator's rating listed on the generator, the generator is good. If not, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
15. With the generator operating at the maximum output, measure the voltage between the generator housing and the battery negative terminal. The voltage drop should be 0.5 volt or less. If the voltage drop is more than 0.5 volt, check the ground path from the generator housing to the negative battery cable.
16. Check, clean, tighten, and recheck all of the ground connections.

1. Visually check the belt and the wiring.
2. With the ignition switch in the RUN position and the engine stopped, the charge indicator lamp should be on. If not, detach the harness at the generator and ground the "L" terminal in the harness with a 5-ampere fused jumper lead.
• If the lamp lights, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
• If the lamp does not light, locate the open circuit between the ignition switch and the harness connector. The indicator lamp bulb may be burned out.
3. With the ignition switch in the RUN position and the engine running at moderate speed, the charge indicator lamp should be off. If not, detach the wiring harness at the generator.
4. With the ignition switch in the RUN position and the engine running at moderate speed, the charge indicator lamp should be off. If not, detach the wiring harness at the generator.
• If the lamp goes off, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
• If the lamp stays on, check for a short to ground in the harness between the connector and the indicator lamp.

---

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the nut from the generator lead to the battery and disconnect the lead.
3. Disconnect the harness connector from the back of the generator.



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4. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Section 6B, Power Steering Pump.



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5. Remove the generator-to-intake manifold and cylinder head support bracket bolts, and the generator-to-intake manifold strap bracket bolt.
6. Raise the vehicle and remove the bolts that hold the generator lower bracket to the engine.



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7. Carefully remove the generator with the lower bracket attached.
8. Remove the generator lower support bracket bolt and the nut.

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1. Install the generator to the lower bracket with the bolts.
2. Install the nut and the washer on the lower bracket-to-generator bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the lower bracket-to-generator nut to 35 N•m (26 lb-ft).


3. Install the generator and the lower support bracket assembly to the engine block with the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the generator lower bracket-to-engine block bolts to 45 N•m (33 lb-ft).




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4. Lower the vehicle and install the generator-to-intake manifold and cylinder head support bracket bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the generator-to-intake manifold and cylinder head support bracket bolts to 35 N•m (26 lb-ft).


5. Install the generator-to-intake manifold strap bracket bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the generator-to-intake manifold strap bracket bolt to 20 N•m (15 lb-ft).




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6. Connect the harness connector to the back of the generator.
7. Connect the battery lead to the generator and install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the battery-to-generator lead to 15 N•m (11 lb-ft).




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8. Install the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Section 6B, Power Steering Pump.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.

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1. Remove the engine intake manifold-to-engine block strap bracket over the starter.
2. Remove the starter-to-transmission mounting bolt.
3. Remove the starter-to-engine block mounting bolt.



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4. Remove the starter solenoid nuts to disconnect the electrical cable.
5. Remove the starter assembly.

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1. Place the starter assembly in position.
2. Install the upper and the lower starter mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the starter-to-engine block mounting bolt to 45 N•m (33 lb-ft).


Tighten
Tighten the starter-to-transmission mounting bolt to 50 N•m (37 lb-ft).


3. Install the engine intake manifold-to-engine block strap bracket over the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the engine strap bracket over the starter to 20 N•m (15 lb-ft).




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4. Position the starter electrical wire on the solenoid terminal.
5. Install the starter solenoid terminal-to-ignition solenoid terminal nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 6 N•m (53 lb-in).


6. Install the starter solenoid terminal-to-battery cable terminal nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 15 N•m (11 lb-ft).

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



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2. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
3. Remove the nuts from the battery rods that fasten the battery hold-down bar clamp.



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4. Check the battery carrier tray for obvious cracks or damage.
5. Detach the carrier tray if necessary by removing the battery carrier tray upper bolts, including the bolt of the battery terminal.
6. Remove the battery carrier tray lower bolts.

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1. Install the battery carrier by fastening the carrier tray upper and the lower bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the battery carrier tray upper bolts, including the battery terminal bolts to 20 N•m (15 lb-ft).


Tighten
Tighten the battery carrier tray lower bolts to 10 N•m (89 lb-in).




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2. Install the battery into the tray.
3. Fasten the bar clamp to the battery by loosely attaching the battery rods from the battery tray cutouts through the bar clamp holes, and loosely tightening the nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the battery retainer clamp-to-battery rod nuts to 4 N•m (35 lb-in).




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4. Connect the positive battery cable.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten
Tighten the battery cable nuts to 15 N•m (11 lb-ft).

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1. Remove the starter. Refer to "Starter" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
2. Remove the starter through-bolts.



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3. Remove the commutator end frame and brush holder assembly.
4. Inspect the brushes, the pop-out springs, and the brush holders for wear and damage. Replace the assembly if needed.



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5. Check the armature to see if it turns freely. If the armature does not turn freely, break down the assembly immediately, starting with Step 12 of this procedure. Otherwise, give the armature a no-load test.



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Notice : Complete the testing in a minimum amount of time to prevent overheating, and thus damaging the solenoid.
Important : If the specified current draw does not include the solenoid, deduct from the armature reading the specified current draw of the solenoid hold-in winding.
6. To begin the no-load test, close the switch and compare the RPM, the current, and the voltage readings with the specifications. Refer to "Starter Specifications" in this section. Make disconnections only with the switch open. Use the test results as follows.



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• Rated current draw and no-load speed indicate the normal condition of the starter motor.
• Low free speed and high current draw indicate too much friction caused by tight, dirty or worn bearings, or a bent armature shaft; a shorted armature, or a shorted armature and fields.
• Failure to operate with high current draw indicates a direct ground in the terminal or fields, or "frozen" bearings.
• Failure to operate with no current draw indicates an open field circuit, open armature coils, broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars, or other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and the commutator.
• Low no-load speed and low current indicate high internal resistance and high current draw, which usually mean shorted fields.



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7. Remove the solenoid assembly screws.



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8. Remove the field connector nut. Disconnect the field connector.



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9. Remove the plunger return spring.



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10. Slide the field frame with enclosed armature assembly away from the starter assembly.
11. Remove the shield.



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12. Separate the field frame from the armature.



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13. Inspect the shaft, the bearing, and the pinion for discoloration, damage, or wear. Replace if necessary.
14. Inspect the points where the armature conductors join the commutator bars. Make sure they have a good connection. A burned commutator bar is usually evidence of a poor connection.
15. If test equipment is available, check the armature for short circuits by placing it on a growler, and holding back a saw blade over the armature core while the armature is rotated. If the saw blade vibrates, replace the armature.
16. Recheck after cleaning between the commutator bars. If the saw blade vibrates, replace the armature.



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17. Remove the gears, the bushing, and the washer.
18. Remove the cushion and the driveshaft assembly from the starter housing.



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19. Disassemble the driveshaft assembly by first separating the needle bearing from the driveshaft.
20. Remove the collar and the locking ring from the groove in the driveshaft.



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21. Remove the pinion stop and the drive from the drive shaft.



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22. Remove the gear support and the collar from the driveshaft.



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23. If not done in the previous steps, remove the screws holding the solenoid assembly into the housing, and remove the nut from the field coil connector.



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24. Remove the plunger return spring.



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25. Remove the plunger with the boot and the shift lever assembly.



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Notice : The pinion clearance must be correct to prevent the buttons on the shift lever yoke from rubbing on the clutch collar during the cranking.
26. When the starter motor is disassembled and the solenoid is replaced, it is necessary to check the pinion clearance.



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27. Disconnect the motor field coil connector from the solenoid motor terminal and carefully insulate the connector.
28. Connect one 12-volt battery lead to the solenoid switch terminal and the other to the starter frame.
29. Flash a jumper lead momentarily from the solenoid motor terminal to the starter frame, allowing shifting of the pinion in the cranking position, where it will remain until the battery is disconnected.
Important : A means for adjusting the pinion clearance is not provided on the starter motor. If the clearance does not fall within the limits, check for improper installation and replace all worn parts.
30. Push the pinion back as far as possible to take up any movement, and check the clearance with a feeler gauge. The clearance should be 0.25 to 3.56 mm (0.01 to 0.14 inch).

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1. Clean all of the starter motor parts, but do not use grease-dissolving solvents for cleaning the armature and the field coils.
2. Lubricate the gears. To reassemble the solenoid only, go to Step 7. To reassemble the starter and the solenoid, go to Step 3.
3. If full disassembly of the starter and the solenoid was performed, begin reassembly by placing the gear support and collar on the driveshaft assembly.



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4. Install the drive and the pinion stop on the driveshaft.



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5. Install the lock ring into the groove on the driveshaft and insert the collar.
6. Install the needle bearing.



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7. Install the shift lever assembly with the plunger and the boot.



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8. Lubricate the gears and install the driveshaft assembly.
9. Install the cushion and the gears.



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10. Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft and install the new gear and the bearing, if needed.



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11. Position the solenoid assembly and the return spring against the plunger, applying sealer to the solenoid flange.



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12. Fasten the solenoid assembly with the screws.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid assembly screws to 8 N•m (71 lb-in).


13. Install the field coil connection to the starter terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the starter field connector nut to 8 N•m (71 lb-in).




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14. Position the armature assembly into the field frame.
15. Place the shield on the armature and field frame assembly.
16. Install the armature and field frame assembly with the shield into the starter housing.



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17. Position the commutator end frame and brush holder assembly, lining up the end frame holes with the through-bolt holes in the housing.



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18. Install the starter through-bolts.
19. Install the starter. Refer to "Starter" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
Tighten
Tighten the starter through-bolts to 6 N•m (53 lb-in).

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1. Remove the generator. Refer to "Generator" in this section.
2. Remove the driveshaft nut.



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3. Remove the pulley and the collar from the drive shaft.



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4. Pry off the plastic cover that encloses the rectifier and the regulator/brush holder assemblies. Inspect the cover for damage.



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5. Remove the generator through-bolts.



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6. Remove the bolts that fasten the rectifier assembly and the regulator/brush holder assembly to the slip ring end frame.



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7. To remove the regulator/brush holder and the rectifier assemblies, first melt the solder of the lead connecting the regulator/brush holder assembly to the rectifier assembly lead to the stator. Do the same to the other rectifier assembly leads to the stator (as shown).



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8. Test each of the three diodes of the rectifier assembly for continuity. Connect the ohmmeter probes on each side of the diode. Retest by connecting the ohmmeter probes reversely. If the readings are the same, replace the rectifier.



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9. Mark a line perpendicular to the crack between the case of the drive end frame and that of the slip ring end frame.
10. Pry open the drive end frame from the slip ring end frame.
11. Remove the collar.



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12. Remove the fan.



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13. Separate the rotor from the slip ring end frame.



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14. Using an ohmmeter, test the stator for ground. If the reading is low, replace the stator. Also check the stator for an open circuit by placing the probes on two terminals. If the reading is high (infinite), replace the stator.



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15. Using an ohmmeter, test the rotor for an open circuit. Check that there is continuity between the slip rings. Standard resistance (cold) is 2.8 to 3.0 ohms. If there is no continuity, replace the rotor.



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16. Using an ohmmeter, inspect the rotor for ground. Check that there is no continuity between the rotor and the slip ring.

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1. Check the bearing on the fan side of the rotor assembly. Replace the bearing if it is rough or worn, and especially if the generator was diagnosed as having a noisy bearing with the vehicle running.
2. If required, install a new bearing and insert the bearing retainer on the rotor assembly shaft.



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3. Press on the rotor assembly into the end frame.
4. Install the fan on the rotor shaft.



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5. Install the collar.



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6. Install the slip ring end frame assembly by lining up the terminal ends of the stator with the end frame cover holes and then lining up the previously made marks on the drive end frame case and the slip ring end frame case before the two cases were separated.
7. Install the generator through-bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the generator through-bolts to 25 N•m (18 lb-ft).




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8. Install the rectifier assembly by first soldering its terminals to the stator terminal ends.
9. If the brushes are worn, solder the terminal of the new brush holder assembly to the regulator assembly.



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10. Solder the terminal of the regulator/brush holder assembly to the rectifier assembly and fasten the rectifier and the regulator/brush holder assemblies to the slip ring end frame with the bolts.
11. Tighten the rectifier and regulator/brush holder assembly bolts until they are touching their respective mounting plates, and tighten the bolts with an additional quarter turn.



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12. Snap on the cover.
13. Install the collar and the pulley on the drive end shaft.



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14. Install the driveshaft nut.
Tighten
Tighten the drive shaft nut to 100 N•m (74 lb-ft).


15. Install the generator. Refer to "Generator" in this section.

• No water addition for the life of the battery.
• Overcharge protection. If too much voltage is applied to the battery, it will not accept as much current as a conventional battery. In a conventional battery, the excess voltage will still try to charge the battery, leading to gassing, which causes liquid loss.
• Not as liable to self-discharge as a conventional battery. This is particularly important when a battery is left standing for long periods of time.
• More power available in a lighter, smaller case.

• Vehicle accessories are left on overnight.
• Slow average driving speeds are used for short periods.
• The vehicle's electrical load is more than the generator output, particularly with the addition of aftermarket equipment.
• Defects in the charging system, such as electrical shorts, a slipping generator belt, a faulty generator, or a faulty voltage regulator.
• Battery abuse, including failure to keep the battery cable terminals clean and tight, or a loose battery hold-down clamp.
• Mechanical problems in the electrical system, such as shorted or pinched wires.

1. When observing the hydrometer, make sure that the battery has a clean top.
2. Under normal operation, two indications can be observed:
• GREEN DOT VISIBLE - Any green appearance is interpreted as a "green dot," meaning the battery is ready for testing.
• DARK GREEN DOT IS NOT VISIBLE - If there is a cranking complaint, the battery should be tested. The charging and electrical systems should also be checked at this time.
3. Occasionally, a third condition may appear:
4. Occasionally, a third condition may appear:
• CLEAR OR BRIGHT YELLOW - This means the fluid level is below the bottom of the hydrometer. This may have been caused by excessive or prolonged charging, a broken case, excessive tipping, or normal battery wear. Finding a battery in this condition may indicate high charging by a faulty charging system. Therefore, the charging and the electrical systems may need to be checked if a cranking complaint exists. If the cranking complaint is caused by the battery, replace the battery.

1. Batteries with the green dot showing do not require charging unless they have just been discharged, such as in cranking a vehicle.
2. When charging sealed-terminal batteries out of the vehicle, install the adapter kit. Make sure all the charger connections are clean and tight. For best results, batteries should be charged while the electrolyte and the plates are at room temperature. A battery that is extremely cold may not accept current for several hours after starting the charger.
3. Charge the battery until the green dot appears. The battery should be checked every half-hour while charging. Tipping or shaking the battery may be necessary to make the green dot appear.
4. After charging, the battery should be load tested. Refer to "Starter Motor" in this section.

• Size of Battery - A completely discharged large heavy-duty battery requires more than twice the recharging time as a completely discharged small passenger car battery.
• Temperature - A longer time will be needed to charge any battery at -18°C (0°F) than at 27°C (80°F). When a fast charger is connected to a cold battery, the current accepted by the battery will be very low at first. The battery will accept a higher current rate as the battery warms.
• Charger Capacity - A charger which can supply only 5 amperes will require a much longer charging period than a charger that can supply 30 amperes or more.
• State-of-Charge - A completely discharged battery requires more than twice as much charge as a one-half charged battery. Because the electrolyte is nearly pure water and a poor conductor in a completely discharged battery, the current accepted by the battery is very low at first. Later, as the charging current causes the electrolyte acid content to increase, the charging current will likewise increase.

1. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals with an accurate voltmeter. If the reading is below 10 volts, the charge current will be very low, and it could take some time before the battery accepts the current in excess of a few milliamperes. Refer to "Charging Time Required" in this section, which focuses on the factors affecting both the charging time required. Such low current may not be detectable on ammeters available in the field.
2. Set the battery charger on the high setting.

3. Continue to charge the battery until the charge current is measurable. Battery chargers vary in the amount of voltage and current provided. The time required for the battery to accept a measurable charger current at various voltages may be as follows:
4. Continue to charge the battery until the charge current is measurable. Battery chargers vary in the amount of voltage and current provided. The time required for the battery to accept a measurable charger current at various voltages may be as follows:

Voltage	Hours
16.0 or more	Up to 4 hours
14.0-15.9	Up to 8 hours
13.9 or less	Up to 16 hours

• If the charge current is not measurable at the end of the above charging times, the battery should be replaced.
• If the charge current is measurable during the charging time, the battery is good, and charging should be completed in the normal manner.

• If the charge current is still not measurable after using the charging time calculated by the above method, the battery should be replaced.

1. Position the vehicle with the charged battery so that the jumper cables will reach from the charged battery to the battery that requires charging.
2. Turn off the ignition, all the lights, and all the electrical loads in both vehicles.
3. Leave the hazard flasher on if jump starting where there may be other traffic and any other lights needed for the work area.
4. Apply the parking brake firmly in both vehicles.

5. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK, or a manual transmission to NEUTRAL.
6. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK, or a manual transmission to NEUTRAL.

6. Clamp one end of the first jumper cable to the positive terminal on the booster battery. Make sure it does not touch any other metal parts.
7. Clamp one end of the first jumper cable to the positive terminal on the booster battery. Make sure it does not touch any other metal parts.
8. Clamp the other end of the same cable to the positive terminal on the discharged battery. Never connect the other end to the negative terminal of the discharged battery.

8. Clamp one end of the second cable to the negative terminal of the booster battery.
9. Clamp one end of the second cable to the negative terminal of the booster battery.
10. Make the final connection to a solid engine ground, such as the engine lift bracket at least 450 millimeters (18 inches) from the discharged battery.
11. Start the engine of the vehicle with the good battery. Run the engine at a moderate speed for several minutes.
12. Then start the engine of the vehicle with the discharged battery.
13. Remove the jumper cables by reversing the above sequence exactly, removing the negative cable from the vehicle with the discharged battery first. While removing each clamp, take care that it does not touch any other metal while the other end remains attached.