• No water addition for the life of the battery.
• Overcharge protection. If too much voltage is applied to the battery, it will not accept as much current as a conventional battery. In a conventional battery, the excess voltage will still try to charge the battery, leading to gassing, which causes liquid loss.
• Not as liable to self-discharge as a conventional battery. This is particularly important when a battery is left standing for long periods of time.
• More power available in a lighter, smaller case.

• Vehicle accessories are left on overnight.
• Slow average driving speeds are used for short periods.
• The vehicle's electrical load is more than the generator output, particularly with the addition of aftermarket equipment.
• Defects in the charging system, such as electrical shorts, a slipping generator belt, a faulty generator, or a faulty voltage regulator.
• Battery abuse, including failure to keep the battery cable terminals clean and tight, or a loose battery hold-down clamp.
• Mechanical problems in the electrical system, such as shorted or pinched wires.

1. When observing the hydrometer, make sure that the battery has a clean top.
2. Under normal operation, two indications can be observed:
• GREEN DOT VISIBLE - Any green appearance is interpreted as a "green dot," meaning the battery is ready for testing.
• DARK GREEN DOT IS NOT VISIBLE - If there is a cranking complaint, the battery should be tested. The charging and electrical systems should also be checked at this time.
3. Occasionally, a third condition may appear:
• CLEAR OR BRIGHT YELLOW - This means the fluid level is below the bottom of the hydrometer. This may have been caused by excessive or prolonged charging, a broken case, excessive tipping, or normal battery wear. Finding a battery in this condition may indicate high charging by a faulty charging system. Therefore, the charging and the electrical systems may need to be checked if a cranking complaint exists. If the cranking complaint is caused by the battery, replace the battery.

1. Batteries with the green dot showing do not require charging unless they have just been discharged, such as in cranking a vehicle.
2. When charging sealed-terminal batteries out of the vehicle, install the adapter kit. Make sure all the charger connections are clean and tight. For best results, batteries should be charged while the electrolyte and the plates are at room temperature. A battery that is extremely cold may not accept current for several hours after starting the charger.
3. Charge the battery until the green dot appears. The battery should be checked every half-hour while charging. Tipping or shaking the battery may be necessary to make the green dot appear.
4. After charging, the battery should be load tested. Refer to "Starter Motor" in this section.

• Size of Battery - A completely discharged large heavy-duty battery requires more than twice the recharging time as a completely discharged small passenger car battery.
• Temperature - A longer time will be needed to charge any battery at −18°C (0°F) than at 27°C (80°F). When a fast charger is connected to a cold battery, the current accepted by the battery will be very low at first. The battery will accept a higher current rate as the battery warms.
• Charger Capacity - A charger which can supply only 5 amperes will require a much longer charging period than a charger that can supply 30 amperes or more.
• State-of-Charge - A completely discharged battery requires more than twice as much charge as a one-half charged battery. Because the electrolyte is nearly pure water and a poor conductor in a completely discharged battery, the current accepted by the battery is very low at first. Later, as the charging current causes the electrolyte acid content to increase, the charging current will likewise increase.

1. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals with an accurate voltmeter. If the reading is below 10 volts, the charge current will be very low, and it could take some time before the battery accepts the current in excess of a few milliamperes. Refer to "Charging Time Required" in this section, which focuses on the factors affecting both the charging time required. Such low current may not be detectable on ammeters available in the field.
2. Set the battery charger on the high setting.

3. Continue to charge the battery until the charge current is measurable. Battery chargers vary in the amount of voltage and current provided. The time required for the battery to accept a measurable charger current at various voltages may be as follows:

Voltage	Hours
16.0 or more	Up to 4 hours
14.0–15.9	Up to 8 hours
13.9 or less	Up to 16 hours

• If the charge current is not measurable at the end of the above charging times, the battery should be replaced.
• If the charge current is measurable during the charging time, the battery is good, and charging should be completed in the normal manner.

• If the charge current is still not measurable after using the charging time calculated by the above method, the battery should be replaced.

1. Position the vehicle with the charged battery so that the jumper cables will reach from the charged battery to the battery that requires charging.
2. Turn off the ignition, all the lights, and all the electrical loads in both vehicles.
3. Leave the hazard flasher on if jump starting where there may be other traffic and any other lights needed for the work area.
4. Apply the parking brake firmly in both vehicles.

5. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK, or a manual transmission to NEUTRAL.

6. Clamp one end of the first jumper cable to the positive terminal on the booster battery. Make sure it does not touch any other metal parts.
7. Clamp the other end of the same cable to the positive terminal on the discharged battery. Never connect the other end to the negative terminal of the discharged battery.

8. Clamp one end of the second cable to the negative terminal of the booster battery.
9. Make the final connection to a solid engine ground, such as the engine lift bracket at least 450 millimeters (18 inches) from the discharged battery.
10. Start the engine of the vehicle with the good battery. Run the engine at a moderate speed for several minutes.
11. Then start the engine of the vehicle with the discharged battery.
12. Remove the jumper cables by reversing the above sequence exactly, removing the negative cable from the vehicle with the discharged battery first. While removing each clamp, take care that it does not touch any other metal while the other end remains attached.

Step	Action	Value(s)	Yes	No
1	Turn the headlamps ON. Turn the dome lamps ON. Turn the ignition to START. Did the lights dim or go out?	-	Go to Step 2	Go to Step 8
2	Check the battery state of charge. Is the green eye showing from the built-in hydrometer?	-	Go to Step 3	Go to "Charging Procedure"
3	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	< 9.6 v	Go to "Charging Procedure"	Go to Step 4
4	Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the engine block. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	> 0.5 v	Go to Step 5	Go to Step 6
5	Clean, tighten, or replace the negative battery cable. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
6	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter "B" terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	< 9 v	Go to Step 7	Go to Step 13
7	Clean, tighten, or replace the positive battery cable. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
8	Inspect the engine fuse block fuse EF1. Is the fuse OK?	-	Go to Step 10	Go to Step 9
9	Replace the fuse EF1. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
10	Check the connection at the starter "ST" terminal. Is the connection OK?	-	Go to Step 12	Go to Step 11
11	Clean or tighten the connection as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
12	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter "ST" terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	> 7 v	Go to Step 13	Go to Step 14
13	Repair or replace the starter as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
14	Determine the type of transaxle on the vehicle. Is the vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission?	-	Go to Step 15	Go to Step 32
15	Disconnect the Park Neutral (P/N) position switch relay. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the P/N relay connector terminal 86. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 20	Go to Step 16
16	Disconnect the P/N position switch. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the P/N position switch connector terminal 4. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 17	Go to Step 25
17	Jumper the P/N position switch connector terminals 3 and 4. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the P/N relay connector terminal 86. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11–14 v	Go to Step 18	Go to Step 19
18	Replace the neutral safety backup switch. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
19	Repair the open wire between the P/N position switch connector terminal 3 and the P/N back-up relay connector terminal 86. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
20	Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the P/N back-up relay connector terminal 30. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 21	Go to Step 27
21	Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the park/neutral position relay connector terminal 85. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11–14 v	Go to Step 22	Go to Step 26
22	Jumper connector terminals 30 and 87 of the P/N relay. Turn the ignition to START. Does the starter crank?	-	Go to Step 31	Go to Step 23
23	Check for an open in the wire between the P/N relay connector terminal 87 and the starter "ST" terminal. Is the problem found?	-	Go to Step 24	Go to Step 13
24	Repair the wire as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
25	Repair the open wire between the P/N position switch connector terminal 4 and ground. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
26	Repair the open wire between the P/N relay connector terminal 85 and the ignition switch connector terminal 3. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
27	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 5 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11–14 v	Go to Step 29	Go to Step 28
28	Repair the open in the wiring between the engine block fuse EF1 and the ignition switch connector terminal 5. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
29	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 30	Go to Step 35
30	Repair the open in the wiring between the ignition switch connector terminal 3 and the P/N relay connector terminal 30. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
31	Replace the P/N relay. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
32	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 5 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 34	Go to Step 33
33	Repair the open in the wiring between the engine block fuse EF1 and the ignition switch connector terminal 5. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
34	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11–14 v	-	Go to Step 36
35	Repair the open in the wiring between the ignition switch connector terminal 3 and the starter "ST" terminal. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
36	Replace the ignition switch. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-

Checks	Action
Check for a high-pitched whine during cranking before the engine fires. The engine cranks and fires properly.	The distance is too great between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Shimming the starter toward the flywheel is required.
Check for a high-pitched whine after the engine fires, as the key is being released. The engine cranks and fires properly. This intermittent complaint is often diagnosed as "starter hang-in" or "solenoid weak."	The distance is too small between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Shimming the starter away from the flywheel is required.
Check for a loud "whoop" after the engine fires but while the starter is still held engaged. The sound is like a siren if the engine is revved while the starter is engaged.	The most probable cause is a defective clutch. A new clutch will often correct this problem.
Check for a "rumble," a "growl," or, in severe cases, a "knock" as the starter is coasting down to a stop after starting the engine.	The most probable cause is a bent or an unbalanced starter armature. A new armature will often correct this problem.

1. Check for a bent or a worn flywheel.
2. Start the engine and carefully touch the outside diameter of the rotating flywheel ring gear with chalk or a crayon to show the high point of the tooth runout. Turn the engine OFF and rotate the flywheel so that the marked teeth are in the area of the starter pinion gear.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent the cranking of the engine.
4. Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a wire gauge of 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) minimum thickness or diameter. Center a pinion tooth between two flywheel teeth and the gauge. Do not gauge in the corners where a misleading larger dimension may be observed. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel.
5. If the clearance approaches 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) or more, shim the starter toward the flywheel. This condition is generally the cause of broken flywheel teeth or the starter housing. Shim the starter toward the flywheel by shimming only the outboard starter mounting pad. A shim of 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) thickness at this location will decrease the clearance by approximately 0.30 mm (0.012 inch). If normal starter shims are not available, plain washers or other suitable material may be used as shims.

1. Check the battery for obvious damage, such as a cracked or broken case or cover, which could permit the loss of electrolyte. If damage is obvious, replace the battery.

2. Check the hydrometer. If the green dot is visible, go to the load test procedure. If the indicator is dark but green is not visible, charge the battery. For charging a battery removed from the vehicle, refer to "Charging a Completely Discharged Battery" in this section.
3. Connect a voltmeter and a battery load tester across the battery terminals.
4. Apply a 300-ampere load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge from the battery.
5. Remove the load.
6. Wait 15 seconds to let the battery recover.
7. Apply a 270-ampere load.
8. If the voltage does not drop below the minimum listed, the battery is good and should be reinstalled. If the voltage is less than the minimum listed, replace the battery. Refer to "Battery Specifications" in this section.

1. Perform the generator system test. Refer to "Generator System Check" in this section.
2. Replace the generator if it fails that test. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
3. If the generator passes the test, perform the on-vehicle output test which follows.

4. Attach a digital multimeter, an ammeter, and a carbon pile load to the vehicle.

5. With the ignition switch in the off position, check and record the battery voltage.
6. With the ignition switch in the off position, check and record the battery voltage.
6. Remove the harness connector from the generator.
7. Remove the harness connector from the generator.
7. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position with the engine not running.
8. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position with the engine not running.
8. Use a digital multimeter to check for voltage in the harness connector "L" terminal. The reading should be near the specified battery voltage of 12 volts.
9. Use a digital multimeter to check for voltage in the harness connector "L" terminal. The reading should be near the specified battery voltage of 12 volts.
9. If the voltage is too low, check the indicator "L" terminal circuits for open and grounded circuits causing voltage loss. Correct any open wires, terminal connections, etc., as necessary. Refer to "Charging System" in this section.
10. If the voltage is too low, check the indicator "L" terminal circuits for open and grounded circuits causing voltage loss. Correct any open wires, terminal connections, etc., as necessary. Refer to "Charging System" in this section.
10. Attach the generator harness connector.
11. Attach the generator harness connector.
11. Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The reading should be above that recorded in step 15 but less than 16 volts. If the reading is over 16 volts or below the previous reading, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
12. Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The reading should be above that recorded in step 15 but less than 16 volts. If the reading is over 16 volts or below the previous reading, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
12. Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the generator amperage output.
13. Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the generator amperage output.
13. Turn on the carbon pile, and adjust it to obtain the maximum amps while maintaining the battery voltage above 13 volts. If the reading is within 15 amps of the generator's rating listed on the generator, the generator is good. If not, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
14. Turn on the carbon pile, and adjust it to obtain the maximum amps while maintaining the battery voltage above 13 volts. If the reading is within 15 amps of the generator's rating listed on the generator, the generator is good. If not, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
14. With the generator operating at the maximum output, measure the voltage between the generator housing and the battery negative terminal. The voltage drop should be 0.5 volt or less. If the voltage drop is more than 0.5 volt, check the ground path from the generator housing to the negative battery cable.
15. With the generator operating at the maximum output, measure the voltage between the generator housing and the battery negative terminal. The voltage drop should be 0.5 volt or less. If the voltage drop is more than 0.5 volt, check the ground path from the generator housing to the negative battery cable.
15. Check, clean, tighten, and recheck all of the ground connections.
16. Check, clean, tighten, and recheck all of the ground connections.

1. Visually check the belt and the wiring.
2. With the ignition switch in the RUN position and the engine stopped, the charge indicator lamp should be on. If not, detach the harness at the generator and ground the "L" terminal in the harness with a 5-ampere fused jumper lead.
• If the lamp lights, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
• If the lamp does not light, locate the open circuit between the ignition switch and the harness connector. The indicator lamp bulb may be burned out.
3. With the ignition switch in the RUN position and the engine running at moderate speed, the charge indicator lamp should be off. If not, detach the wiring harness at the generator.
• If the lamp goes off, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
• If the lamp stays on, check for a short to ground in the harness between the connector and the indicator lamp.

---

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air filter housing bolts and the air housing bolts.
3. Remove the air intake tube from the throttle body.



---





4. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Section 6B, Power Steering Pump.
5. Disconnect the harness connector from the back of the generator.
6. Remove the bracket bolt at the power steering oil pressure line.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

12 N•m (106 lb-ft)

7. Remove the support bracket bolt.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

20 N•m (15 lb-ft)

8. Remove the air inlet duct bolts and the air inlet duct.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

20 N•m (15 lb-ft)




---





9. Remove the battery harness connector nut and washer from the generator.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

12 N•m (106 lb-in)

10. Remove the nut and the washers which hold the generator lower bracket-to-generator bolt.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

20 N•m (15 lb-ft)

11. Carefully remove the generator.
12. Installation should follow the removal procedure in the reverse order.

---

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the nut that secures the starter ground wire to the lower mounting stud.
3. Disconnect the ground wire.
4. Remove the starter solenoid nut.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

12 N•m (106 lb-in)

5. Disconnect the starter solenoid terminal-to-battery cable terminal.
6. Disconnect the ST-terminal connector from the starter solenoid.



---





7. Remove the starter-to-transmission mounting bolt.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

23 N•m (17 lb-ft)

8. Remove the starter-to-engine block mounting bolt.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

23 N•m (17 lb-ft)

9. Remove the starter assembly.
10. Installation should follow the removal procedure in the reverse order.

---

1. Remove the battery cable nuts.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

15 N•m (11 lb-ft)

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable and then disconnect the positive battery cable.
3. Remove the battery rods clamp nuts
4. Remove the battery rods and clamp
5. Remove the battery.



---





6. Remove the power steering fluid reservoir. Refer to Section 6A, Power Steering System.
7. Remove the EI system ignition coil. Refer to Section 1F, Engine Controls.
8. Remove the battery tray bolts/nut.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

20 N•m (15 lb-ft)

9. Remove the battery tray.
10. Installation should follow the removal procedure in the reverse order.

---

1. Remove the starter. Refer to "Starter"in this section.
2. Remove the starter through-bolts.



---





3. Remove the commutator end frame/brush holder assembly.
4. Inspect the brushes, the pop-out springs, and the brush holders for wear and damage. Replace the assembly if necessary.



---





5. Check the armature to see if it turns freely. If the armature does not turn freely, break down the assembly immediately, starting with Step 12. Otherwise, give the armature a no-load test.



---





Notice : Complete the testing in a minimum amount of time to prevent overheating of the solenoid.
Important : If the specified current draw does not include the solenoid, deduct from the armature reading the specified current draw of the solenoid hold-in winding.
6. To begin the no-load test, close the switch and compare the rpm, the current, and the voltage readings with the specifications. Refer to "Starter Specifications" in this section. Make disconnection only with the switch open. Use the test results as follows.
6.1 Rated current draw and no-load speed indicate a normal condition for the starter motor.
6.2 Low free speed and high current draw indicate too much friction (tight, dirty or worn bearings or a bent armature shaft), a shorted armature, or a shorted armature or fields.
6.3 Failure to operate with high current draw indicates a direct ground in the terminal or fields, or "frozen" bearings.
6.4 Failure to operate with no current draw indicates an open field circuit, open armature coils, broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars, or other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and the commutator.
6.5 Low no-load speed and low current indicate high internal resistance and high current draw, which usually mean shorted fields.



---





7. Remove the solenoid assembly screws.



---





8. Remove the field connector nut. Disconnect the field connector.



---





9. Rotate the solenoid 90 degrees and remove it along with the plunger return spring.



---





Important : If the solenoid is not removed from the starter motor, the connector strap terminal must be removed from the terminal on the solenoid before making these tests.
10. Test the solenoid windings by checking the current draw.
10.1 Check the hold-in windings by connecting an ammeter in series with the 12-volt battery, the switch terminal, and to ground.
10.2 Connect the carbon pile across the battery.
10.3 Adjust the voltage to 12.2 volts. The ammeter reading should be 12 to 20 amperes.
Important : Current will decrease as the windings heat up. Current draw windings that are over specifications indicate shorted turns, or a ground in the windings of the solenoid. Both conditions require replacement of the solenoid. Current draw readings that are under specifications indicate excessive resistance. No reading indicates an open circuit.



---





11. Check both windings, connecting them according to the preceding test.
11.1 Ground the solenoid motor terminal.
11.2 Adjust the voltage to 12.2 volts. The ammeter reading should b 60 to 90 amperes.
11.3 Check the connections and replace the solenoid, if necessary.



---





12. Slide the field frame with enclosed armature assembly away from the starter assembly.
13. Remove the shield.



---





14. Separate the field frame from the armature.



---





15. Inspect the shaft, the bearing, and the pinion for discoloration, damage, or wear. Replace if necessary.
16. Inspect the points where the armature conductors join the commutator bars. Make sure they have a good connection. A burned commutator bar is usually evidence of a poor connection.
17. If test equipment is available, check the armature for short circuits by placing it on a growler, and holding back a saw blade over the armature core while the armature is rotated. If the saw blade vibrates, replace the armature.
18. Recheck after cleaning between the commutator bars. If the saw blade vibrates, replace the armature.



---





19. Remove the gears, the bushing, and the washer.
20. Remove the cushion and driveshaft assembly from the starter housing.



---





21. Disassemble the driveshaft assembly by first separating the bushing from the driveshaft.
22. Remove the collar and the locking ring from the groove in the driveshaft.



---





23. Remove the pinion stop and the drive from the drive-shaft.



---





24. Remove the gear support from the driveshaft.



---





25. If not done in the previous steps, remove the screws that hold the solenoid assembly into the housing, and remove the nut from the field coil connector.



---





26. Rotate the solenoid 90 degrees and remove it along with the return spring.



---





27. Remove the plunger with the boot and the shift lever assembly.



---





Notice : The pinion clearance must be correct to prevent the buttons on the shift lever yoke from rubbing on the clutch collar during the cranking.
28. When the starter motor is disassembled and the solenoid is replaced, it is necessary to check the pinion clearance.



---





29. Disconnect the motor field coil connector from the solenoid motor terminal and carefully insulate the connector.
30. Connect one 12-volt battery lead to the solenoid switch terminal and the other to the starter frame.
31. Flash a jumper lead momentarily from the solenoid motor terminal to the starter frame, allowing shifting of the pinion in the cranking position, where it will remain until the battery is disconnected.
Important : A means for adjusting the pinion clearance is not provided on the starter motor. If the clearance does not fall within the limits, check for improper installation and replace all worn parts.
32. Push the pinion back as far as possible to take up any movement, and check the clearance with a feeler gauge. The clearance should be 0.25 to 3.56mm (0.01 to 0.14inch).

---

1. Clean all of the starter motor parts, but do not use grease-dissolving solvents for cleaning the armature and the field coils.
2. Lubricate the gears with lubricant. (Begin at Step 7 if proceeding with just the reassembly of the solenoid.)
3. If full disassembly of the starter and the solenoid was performed, begin reassembly by placing the gear support and the collar on the driveshaft assembly.



---





4. Install the drive and the pinion stop on the drive-shaft.



---





5. Install the lock ring into the groove on the driveshaft and insert the collar.
6. Install the bushing.



---





7. Install the shift lever assembly with the plunger and the boot.



---





8. Lubricate the gears with lubricant and install the dri-veshaft assembly with the bushing and the washer on the gear end.
9. Install the cushion and the gears.



---





10. Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft with lubricant and install the new gear and the bearing, if necessary.



---





11. Position the solenoid assembly and the return spring against the plunger, applying sealer to the solenoid flange.



---





12. Fasten the solenoid assembly with the screws.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

8 N•m (71 lb-in)

13. Install the field coil connection to the starter terminal. Install the nut.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

8 N•m (71 lb-in)




---





14. Position the armature assembly into the field frame.
15. Place the shield on the armature and field frame assembly.
16. Install the armature and field frame assembly with the shield into the starter housing.



---





17. Position the commutator end frame/brush holder assembly, lining up the end frame holes with the through-bolt holes in the housing.



---





18. Install the starter through-bolts.
19. Install the starter. Refer to "Starter" in this section.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

6 N•m (53 lb-in)

---

1. Remove the generator. Refer to "Generator"in the On-Vehicle Service section.
2. Mark a match line that cannot easily be removed on the end frame to make assembly easier.
3. Pry off the plastic cover to expose the stator connections.



---





Notice : If the stator connections are not welded, melt the lead. Avoid excessive heating, as it can damage the diodes in the rectifier bridge.
4. Remove the stator connections from the rectifier bridge terminals by unsoldering or cutting the wires.



---





5. Remove the generator through-bolts.



---





Important : The fastening torque of this nut is 81 N•m (60 lb-ft) and may not normally be unfastened using hand strength.
6. Move to the drive end of the generator and remove the drive end bearing nut.
7. Remove the pulley and the collars.



---





8. Test the rotor for an open circuit by using the ohmmeter with the drive end frame assembled. The reading should be sufficiently high, or the rotor must be replaced.



---





9. Test the rotor for open and short circuits. The reading should be 1.7 to 2.3 ohms, or the rotor should be replaced.



---





10. Remove the drive end frame from the shaft.
11. For vehicles with an internal generator fan, remove the drive end frame and the fan.



---





12. Remove the rotor assembly.



---





13. Remove the stator.
14. Test the stator for an open circuit using the ohmmeter.



---





15. Pry off the baffle.
16. Remove the rectifier/regulator/brush holder assembly screws.
17. Remove the brush holder assembly and the regulator, cutting the terminal between the regulator and the rectifier bridge.
Important : If the brush can be reused, reassemble the brush to the holder with the retaining pin, after cleaning the brush with a soft, clean cloth.



---





18. Test the rectifier bridge by connecting the ohmmeter terminals to the bridge and the heat sink.



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19. Retest by connecting the ohmmeter terminals in reverse.



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20. Replace the rectifier bridge if each reading is the same.
21. Test the remaining two diodes after the above procedure.
Notice : Some kinds of digital ohmmeters are not suited for the test of the bridge diode. In this case, consult the manufacturer regarding the test capacity.
22. Test the diodes by connecting the ohmmeter terminals to the bridge terminal and base plate. If the reading is the same, the rectifier bridge should be replaced.



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23. Remove the ring in the slip ring end frame.

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1. Install the new ring in the slip ring end frame.
2. Push the new bearing outer lace into the bottom of the end frame casting.



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3. Solder the brush holder terminal to the regulator terminal, if removed.
4. Fix the brush holder with the retainer pin, and solder the regulator/brush holder assembled terminal to the rectifier terminal.
5. Apply silicone grease between the bridge and the end frame for radiation purposes.
6. Fasten the screws holding the rectifier regulator/ brush holder assembly to the end frame.
7. Punch the new baffle with the pin into the brush.



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8. Install the stator.



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Notice : Take care to protect the diode in the rectifier bridge from excessive heat while welding or soldering.
9. Solder or weld the connectors of the rectifier bridge.



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10. Install the outside cover.



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11. Position the rotor assembly shaft with the drive end frame in the slip ring end assembly until the gap between the outer lace and the end frame casting is 1.9 mm (0.075 inch).
12. Install the generator through-bolts.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

10 N•m (89 lb-in)




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13. Position the fan, the collars, and the pulley on the rotor shaft and secure with the nut.
Installation Notice

Tightening Torque

81 N•m (60 lb-ft)

14. Install the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the on-vehicle service section.

Description	Unit	1.6L DOHC	2.0L DOHC
Type	-	Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction	Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
Output (Capacity)	kW	1.2	1.4
No Load test@ (12) volts drive pinion Speed	A RPM	90 Max 2,600 Min	85 Max 2,550 Min
Brushes length	mm (in.)	8.25	7.3

Description	Unit	1.6L DOHC	2.0L DOHC
Type	-	CS121D	CS121D
Rejulator Voltage	V	14.6	14.6
Brushes Length	mm (in.)	25	25
Output (Capacity)	-	85(A)	85(A)

Description	Unit	1.6L DOHC	2.0L DOHC
Capacity	AH	55	66
Cold Cranks Amps	CCA	850	610
Reserve Capacity Minimum	min	110
Load Test	amps	300
Minimum Voltage: 9.6 9.5 9.4 9.3 9.1 8.9 8.7 8.5	V V V V V V V V	70°F (21°C) and above 60°F (15.6°C) 50°F (10°C) 40°F (4.4°C) 30°F (-1.1°C) 20°F (-6.7°C) 10°F (-12.2°C) 0°F (-17.8°C)

Application	N•m	Lb-Ft	Lb-In
Battery Cable Nuts	5	-	44
Battery Carrier Tray Lower Bolts	10	-	89
Battery Carrier Tray Upper Bolts	20	15	-
Battery Retainer Clamp-to-Battery Rod Nuts	4	-	35
Battery Terminal Bolt	20	15	-
Battery-to-Generator Lead Nut	12	-	106
Generator Driveshaft Nut	100	74	-
Generator Lower Bracket-to-Engine Block Bolts	30	22	-
Generator Lower Bracket-to-Generator Nut	20	15	-
Generator Through-Bolts	25	18	-
Generator-to-Cylinder Head Support Bracket Bolt	20	15	-
Generator-to-Intake Manifold and Cylinder Head Support Bracket Bolts	35	26	-
Generator-to-Intake Manifold Strap Bracket Bolt	20	15	-
Intake Manifold-to-Engine Block Bracket Bolts (Over Starter)	20	15	-
Starter Field Connector Nut	6	-	53
Starter Solenoid Terminal-to-Battery Cable Terminal Nut	12	-	106
Starter Solenoid Terminal-to-Ignition Solenoid Terminal Nut	6	-	53
Starter Through-Bolts	6	-	53
Starter-to-Engine Block Mounting Bolt	50	37	-
Starter-to-Transmission Mounting Bolt	45	33	-